
This isn't my sport, but I was listening to a local NPR (general issues) program Monday and the guys (surfers) that know their stuff said for people to stay our of the coastal waters for the next few days unless one is an expert surfer.
Well, apparently, at one place it was too much even for a guy considered "legendary" in the skill.
Excerpt SF Gate report "'Legendary' surfer perishes in huge waves " Picture of waves at site:
An accomplished local surfer who lived for monster waves died Tuesday at Ghost Trees, a Monterey County surf spot known for its potent swells and dangerous conditions.
Peter Davi, 45, one of the area's most beloved watermen, apparently lost his board and attempted to swim to shore, according to fellow surfers. He was later found floating in the water unconscious and was pronounced dead around 1:30 p.m., the Monterey County coroner's office said.
His death devastated Santa Cruz and Monterey surfers, many of whom had ventured to Ghost Trees on Tuesday in search of big waves.
"Pete was well-loved and well-respected worldwide," said Anthony Ruffo, one of Davi's best friends, who was at the surf spot Tuesday. "People from everywhere are calling. He'll be so missed. He's the diplomat of surfing. He was an anchor and a bridge between Santa Cruz and Monterey surfers."
"He's my friend," Ruffo said, "and I'm going to miss him so much."
Also at Ghost Trees was Tyler Smith, a professional surfer from Santa Cruz who said the wave faces were as big as 60 to 70 feet, "almost as big as we've seen out there."
Here's an earlier article from Surfer Magazine that seems to show the danger of the surfing at "Ghost Trees".